Hobart
Sydney Morning Herald
Thursday November 3, 1994
DERWENT RIVER
LIFE IN Hobart revolves around fishing, the water and boats and this harbour is always busy with crayfish boats, ketches, cruise ships and enormous iron vessels, equipped with the latest in scientific equipment, ready to head for Antarctic waters. Take a cruise and see the inlets and bays that make up the world's deepest harbour. Why not include a visit to Cadbury Schweppes on the way? Hobart's original vintage ferry, the Emmalisa, offers 90-minute cruises, departing four times daily: 11.30 am, 1 pm (includes lunch), 3 pm and 5.15 pm (to catch the twilight and city lights). Adults $15, $35 for families. The Cadbury factory cruise leaves at 10 am Monday and Wednesday; $28 for adults, pensioners $25 and children $14, all including lunch, factory tour and transfers. Inquiries, (002) 23 5893 or the Tasmanian Travel Centre. The MV Cartela also cruises the Derwent. A dinner cruise costs $15 for adults and $35 for a family and departs each Friday and Saturday at 6 pm. Inquiries, (002) 23 1914 or 24 8332.
CONSTITUTION DOCK
THE SCENE of one of Australia's biggest annual parties - when the yachts complete the Sydney-Hobart classic each Christmas. Fascinating from dawn to dusk, with fish and chips sold direct from fishing trawlers and restaurants open for business daily, the most famous being Mure's Upper Deck.
SALAMANCA PLACE
A COLONNADE of sandstone Georgian warehouses, many designed by John Lee Archer, Tasmania's match for Francis Greenway in Sydney. It's the hub of Sullivan's Cove, housing shops, restaurants, pubs, theatres and government departments. Worth a browse but if possible be there on a Saturday morning when it becomes a bustling boulevard of umbrellatopped stalls stocking craft, produce and gourmet foods. Salamanca market, free entrance, 8 am to 2 pm.
BATTERY POINT
A POCKET of nostalgia and charming architecture, originally a mariners'village and so-named because a battery of guns dominated the promontory to protect the colony. Best seen on foot, so take Kelly's Steps from Salamanca Place into Kelly Street where there are cosy brick and stone cottages, now carefully restored. Turn left into narrow McGregor Street, into Runnymede and on to quaint Arthur's Circus with its village green and swings. Arthur's Circus leads to Hampden Road, where there are restaurants, antique shops and the Van Diemen Folk Museum, but don't dally too long for there are still Colville and Finlay streets to see. In Clark Avenue don't miss Secheron House, built in 1831 and now home to the Maritime Museum, before going back to the waterfront via Marine Terrace, where you can watch the sun set and yachts rock gently on their moorings. Maritime Museum open weekdays and Sunday, 1 pm to 4.30 pm, Saturdays 10 am to 4.30 pm; admission $2, children free. Van Diemen Folk Museum is open Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm and Saturday and Sunday and public holidays 2 pm to 5 pm.
THE ROYAL TASMANIAN BOTANICAL GARDENS
COVERING 13.6 ha and gloriously situated on the Queen's Domain overlooking the Derwent River, adjacent to Government House and only two kilometres from the heart of Hobart. Impressive entrance through cast-iron gates imported from Britain in 1876. Don't miss the lily pond which, when viewed from its bridge, resembles the map of Tasmania; or the fernery, which features Tasmanian conifers such as the King William, fondly called King Billy pine, and the famous Huon pine. Also visit the Conservatory, built in 1939 and considered one of the finest of its type. Usually open daily but with seasonally adjusted times is the museum and education centre. Gardens are open from 8 am daily throughout the year, closing at 6.30 pm between November and March, 5.30 pm in April, 4.45 pm from May to August and 5.30 pm in September and October. Admission is free. Easy parking and refreshments available. Group tours available by prior arrangement, (002) 34 6299. Wheelchairs on request.
MOUNT WELLINGTON
SOME SAY its 1,270-metre peak offers views rivalled only by Rio de Janeiro and Cape Town, and also that it provides Australia's easiest access to snow in winter. The Wellington Ranges sweep to the Derwent River, with much of Hobart nestling in the lower slopes. You can drive, walk or cycle to the top - 100 kilometres of well-marked walking trails for all levels of fitness, offering excellent nature study, rock climbing and photographic opportunities. Brakeout Cycling Tours provides a "free wheel" down to the city centre for $25 a person, (002) 782 966. Harley Tours of Hobart allows adults and children to ride pillion on Harley Davidson motorcycles and sidecars, (016) 181 884 (a message service).
PARLIAMENT HOUSE
John Lee Archer-designed, this building originally was intended to be Hobart Town's Custom House, but its first responsible government sat there on December 2, 1856. Completed in 1840, it is an unadorned but well-balanced building on the corner of Murray Street and Salamanca Place. Free guided tours every week day at 10 am and 2 pm, unless Parliament is sitting, when you may only enter the gallery and listen to proceedings. Don't overlook the old Bond Store in what's now the basement but once opened onto the street - the arched ceilings are made from convict bricks.
© 1994 Sydney Morning Herald